Kathmandu: Every year, the responsibility of crafting sacred masks for Bhaktapur’s famed Navadurga festival rests on the skilled hands of Rajendra Chitrakar from Yachhe. A tradition he has upheld for decades, Chitrakar is the sole artisan entrusted with producing the 13 divine masks essential for the city’s annual ritual dance.
The masks, known locally as mukundos, represent 13 deities Mahadev, Ganesh, Brahmayani, Maheshwari, Kumari, Vaishnavi, Indrayani, Barahi, Mahakali, Sima, Bhairav, Duma, and Swet Bhairav. Weighing between five to six kilograms each, the masks take months to complete and cost around Rs 300,000 to make. The expenses are collectively borne by Chitrakar, the municipality, the Guthi Sansthan, and the Dharma Guthi.
Work begins annually on Ghantakarna, or Gantanmuga in Newa tradition, which falls in Shrawan. Chitrakar must complete the intricate pieces by Navami, the ninth day of Dashain, when the masks are handed over to the Vanmala community. The Vanmala artists then don the masks to perform the ritual Navadurga dance.
The Navadurga dance continues for nine months, staged in 22 locations across Bhaktapur, and also performed in Pashupati, Sankhu, Nala, Nankhel, Sanga, Banepa, Panauti, and Dhulikhel. The journey of the masks concludes on Bhalbala Ashtami in Asar, when effigies of the deities wearing the masks are ceremonially burned and immersed in the Hanumante River.
Beyond the Navadurga festivities, the masks also play a central role in other traditional performances, including Mukundo Ngala Kegu Jatra, Machha Marne Jatra, Gaijatra, Devinach, Bhairav Nach, and Lakhe Nach.
Chitrakar’s work not only sustains an ancient art form but also preserves the cultural heartbeat of Bhaktapur, keeping alive traditions that have bound the community for centuries.
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